Madagascar is quickly moving up explorers’ to-go lists as the island builds a reputation as a one-of-a-kind destination, with a biodiversity that is so incredible it is hard to believe that it all exists on one patch of land. It is rather a large patch of land at that! One way to see Madagascar’s natural beauty is to visit it in a clockwise fashion, from north to east, south and west. Carolynne Higgins describes the highlights…
Also called The Great Red Island and The Eighth Continent, Madagascar lies 400 km off the east coast of Africa, divided from the motherland by the great Mozambique Channel. It is the fourth-largest island in the world and upon it exists an entirely unique combination of habitats, wildlife, landscapes, mountains, rainforests and tropical beaches.
Almost all of the forest flora on Madagascar is endemic, while roughly 80% of the animal species can be found nowhere else on earth. Of all the magnificent bird species that occupy the skies, half are unique to Madagascar. This is also the original island of spices, with an abundance of fragrant trees spilling aromas of vanilla and cinnamon into the air. There are around 1 000 species of orchid, as well as expertly camouflaged lizards and geckos, chameleons ranging from the size of a fingernail to that of a forearm, and insects whose body armour could have originated in Jurassic Park. National parks are a celebration of the Madagascan mascot – the Lemur. From the world’s smallest primate, the 25g pygmy mouse lemur, to the 9 kg indri, whose eerie calls echo through the dense forest, imitating the sounds of whales – all occur here.
It is most rational to divide this extravagant blend of the world’s most desired natural environments according to a compass. Each co-ordinate brings with it a different terrestrial indulgence of woodland, ancient geology, tropical greenery and sandy shorelines, with a variety of natural and cultural attractions – much of it as yet undiscovered. Here is a guide to mysterious Madagascar: a brief outline of what you will find and where to find it.
Indian Ocean paradise in Nosy Be
The northern tropics.This is probably the most recognised holiday destination in Madagascar and what it offers is truly what is sought after by beach bums and lovers of island life. The archipelago of Nosy Be is the picture of paradise, with stretches of white sand nurtured by the persistent lapping of the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Sunbathers, snorkellers and scuba divers will discover the underwater wonders, while land lizards can retreat to the interior and uncover the deep crater lakes dipping into the volcanic earth, and an isolated growth of montane forest in Montagne d’Ambre National Park. From palm-tree umbrellas on the luminescent white sand to the most scenic of hiking trails leading wanderers through a world of waterfalls, upwards to the island’s highest peak, Tsaratanana Massif.
The great stretch along the east coast of Madagascar is renowned rainforest territory. This belt of greenery is an area of almost constant rainfall, with the intricate waterways of Canal des Pangalanes awaiting the exploration of curious boatmen and paddlers. Exotic fruits grow in abundance, while the fragrant scents of spices growing along the water’s edge tantalise the senses. Andasibe National Park is the protected home of the largest of the lemur species, the indri. Although boldly black and white in colour, these mammals’ wailing calls can be heard long before they are spotted, clinging to the trees.
Just a short boat ride from the mainland, the island of Sainte Marie is reached across a channel that is the migration route for hundreds of breeding humpback whales as they move north from the icy Antarctic waters. The island, called Île Sainte Marie locally, is home to an ancient, rather eerie, cemetery, the untouched graveyard of numerous pirates. Skull-and-crossbone insignias enhance the effect.
Crowned Lemur close-up
In the south, the landscape reflects the changes from the nourished east to the thirsty west while introducing its own element of uniqueness. Here, spiny forests are filled with species that resemble the baobabs they are related to (the latter also occur on the island). These trees salute the sun, with their root-like branches extending outwards rather than upwards, creating interesting silhouettes against the dusk skies burnt orange by the setting sun. The south is the wildest and driest of all the Malagasy regions. Visitors hiking through the staggeringly beautiful canyons of Isalo National Park may even, with a little investigation, uncover evidence of the extinct elephant bird. In the coastal town of Fort Dauphin, it is recommended that one indulges in the edible speciality of the island – lobster, which is served here in rich and tantalising abundance.
Completing the geographical circle of coastal Madagascar is the wild west. This is an area of vast sandy beaches and deciduous forests – trees that ripen with the season and relinquish their leaves at the end, revealing bare branches. Unlike the well-visited forested region of the east, western Madagascar is remote and sacred. Here, prehistoric rock formations pierce the skies with their jagged limestone peaks. The Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve is a World Heritage Site, praised for its unusual rock formations and the caves hidden within. This is a difficult destination to reach, but the rewards of its utter wilderness are more than worth the effort.
Dug-out canoes docked at the beach
Towering trees in Madagascar
A family of Ring-tailed lemurs
Madagascar’s spectacular birdlife
Keen to explore Madagascar? Go to http://www.sunsafaris.com/beach-holiday/madagascar/ to find out more.